jTaunttrg 




2Ia«nJirg l^tnte. 



A book of Laundry Information for 
Housewives, Laundresses, Students 
in Domestic Science, and all others 
interested in the best Laundry work. 

Arranged, complied and published 

in the interests of 

MRS. STEWART'S LIQUID BLUING. 



Copyright 1904 by 
Allyn K. Ford, Minneapolis. 



LIBRARY cf OONGHcSS 
Twu Copies Keceivea 

LUC 57 1904 

Uopyrliriii tniry 

CUSS ^. XXc Noi 

COPY B. 




Contents. 

PAGE 

Chapter I, Soap and Water 5 

Chapter II. Washing 9 

Chapter III. Blueing 16 

Chapter IV. Starching 22 

Chapter V. Ironing 27 

Chapter VI. Removing Stains 31 

Chapter VII. Cleaning Special Materials 87 

Chapter VIII. Miscellaneous Household Recipes 42 



^. 



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PREFACE. 

This book is written with the idea of helping those 
who do laundry work, the intention being to give 
concisely and explicitly, ways by which wash day may 
be made less of a burden to the housewife; and meth- 
ods which will either make the work easier or else 
cleanse better than formerly. It contains some infor- 
mation familiar to the experienced housewife and some 
which is here published for the first time. A careful 
perusal of its pages, however, will repay any woman 
however experienced or inexperienced she may be. 

If there are any recipes, bearing on laundry work 
or cleaning of any kind, which you have found es- 
pecially good and which are not mentioned here; par- 
ticularly if calling for the use of MRS. STEWART'S 
BLUING, send them to Mrs. N. E. Stewart, Minne- 
apolis. You will receive acknowledgment of their re- 
ceipt, and if available they will be published in a new 
edition of this book. Your name will be withheld if 
requested. 

If, at any time, you have any trouble in laundry 
work of any kind, write to Mrs. N. E. Stewart, Minne- 
apolis. You will receive, in reply, expert advice free 
of all charge. 

Schools, colleges, etc., who wish to get copies of this 
book for the use of their students, should write for 
special terms. 

Minneapolis, January, 1905. 



Mrs. Stewart's Bluing. 




The only Perfect Bluing. 
A Laundry Favorite For Twenty Years. 



CHAPTER I. 
SOAP AND WATER. 

In laundry work, the first and most important thing 
is water, and plenty of it. This is by far the greatest 
cleanser known, and one ought not to have to stint on 
this most necessary agent. It is a fact that if one had 
plenty of water and plenty of time, one could, with 
rubbing, cleanse almost everything. This is, of course, 
a rather hard way to accomplish a washing, and there 
are few who could spare the time or strength necessary. 

To the housewife water may be classed as of two 
kinds, hard and soft. Hard water, which contains a 
great deal of mineral substances in solution, may be 
told immediately by the long time it takes soap to 
make a lather; while soft water produces a lather 
quickly, and dissolves soap rapidly. For laundry work 
it is most important that the water be soft so that 
the soap will do its work properly ; and in localities 
where nothing but hard water is to be had, the water 
must be made soft or "broke" as it is called. In order 
to do this, some chemical is usually added to the water, 
such as sal soda, lye, borax, or ammonia. One table- 
spoonful of sal soda or borax, or one-half tablespoon- 
ful of powdered lye, to each gallon of water, is about 
the proportion to use; though waters vary in hard- 
ness, some requiring stronger and others a weaker 



6 Laundry Hints. 



solution. Whichever is used, should be first dissolved 
in hot water in a granite iron dish, before putting in 
boiler. See that it is entirely dissolved, for if not, it 
is likely to injure the clothes. After the water comes 
to a boil, skim and strain before using. If ammonia is 
used, one should use enough so as to counteract the 
minerals, but the water should not be hot, as this 
evaporates the ammonia and causes it to lose its 
strength. In the case of each one of these chemicals 
one must be careful to use only just enough of them 
to make the water soft, for an excess will eat into the 
clothes and cause damage ; or if not that, will at least 
make the clothes yellow. If water is what is called 
''temporary" hard water, it may be softened by merely 
boiling, and the old-fashioned way is to put a glass 
vial in the kettle of water which is being boiled. The 
carbonate of lime, and other impurities, will then be 
found adhering to the bottle. It is said that this 
makes the water boil much quicker also. 

To Clear Muddy or Dirty Water. 
In many localities the water holds a great deal of 
sand in suspension, and this, of course, must be over- 
come before using. To do this take one tablespoonful 
of alum dissolved in hot water, and add this to each 
gallon of water to be used. This precipitates the dirt 
to the bottom ; and the top, which is now clean, may 
be poured ofif and used. Water for washing should, 
of course, be clean and free from any odor when either 
hot or cold, and it is best to avoid, when possible, 
water which contains iron, as this will cause rust spots 
on the clothes if the soap is not thoroughly washed out. 



Soap and Water. 



Laundry Soap. 

Next to water the most important thing is soap. 
This is a great aid in cleaning as the soap unites with 
the dirt in the clothes to loosen it, when the water 
washes it out. For good work a good laundry soap 
should be used. If one buys too cheap soap, or one 
on whose quality one cannot rely, it is likely to be 
greatly adulterated with rosin, which is hard on the 
hands. Almost all laundry soap contains some rosin, 
and if but a small percentage, it is not injurious. It is 
best to buy soap by the case, remove from wrappers 
and let the soap dry and season. Well seasoned soap 
will last a great deal longer, and besides, one can get 
a case of soap at a considerable saving over buying 
but a few bars at a time. For washing woolens, silks, 
laces, etc., a neutral soap, i. e., one containing but little 
free alkali, should be used. Soft soap is too strong 
for most laundry work, being very hard on the hands 
and clothes. It is used only in washing very dirty, 
greasy articles of clothing, scrubbing floors, etc. 

One should always exercise economy in using 
soap, by saving the small pieces when they are too 
small to use. These can later on be shaved into the 
boiler of clothes. It is well to form the habit of not 
leaving the soap in the water any longer than is neces- 
sary, for this wastes the soap and if one forgets to 
take it out, the entire bar will soon disappear. 

To Make Soap. 

It is far better to buy soap than to make it at home, 
as the saving is hardly equal to the trouble of making 



Laundry Hints. 



it yourself. Often, however, one can use up the fats 
and grease from the kitchen in this way, and we 
therefore give this recipe for making hard soap : 

To Make Hard Soap. 
The fats, greases, etc., should first be clarified by 
boiling with several pieces of raw potatoes, then 
skimmed and strained through cheese cloth. Now 
take 2^ pints of cold water in a granite iron dish, 
and add carefully one pound best lye. This should be 
done with the greatest care, as the lye will eat the 
hands if one is unfortunate enough to get any on them. 
It is best to cover them with an old cloth or paper for 
protection. The mixture becomes hot as the lye dis- 
solves, and it should be allowed to stand and cool to 
about 70 degrees temperature. Now take 63/2 pounds 
of the clarified fat, and warm till melted, but do not 
boil. Pour the lye slowly on the grease, stirring mean- 
while, and when about the consistency of thin honey, 
pour into pans which should be wet before pouring 
the mixture into them. Do not stir too long. When 
cold the soap may be cut up into cakes of convenient 
size. 

To Make Soft Soap. 

Take seven and one-half pounds of potash, ten 
pounds of grease and forty gallons of water. Dissolve 
potash in a pan of water, add say one-third of the 
grease, and heat. Now mix in the remainder of the 
grease and add the rest of the water gradually for 
several days. It will be ready for use in about two 
weeks. 



CHAPTER II. 

WASHING. 

On the day before "wash day" the soiled articles 
should be sorted into piles, each containing one kind 
only. Look over each piece carefully and if any are 
torn, mend them, or at least draw the edges together 
so the rent will not be made any worse. If any have 
stains, remove them now, though a better time would 
have been to have removed them when the stain was 
made. The piles of linen will then be: First, table 
linen ; second, bed and body linen ; third, handker- 
chiefs ; fourth, muslins, laces, etc. ; fifth, kitchen cloths, 
etc. Flannels should be shaken and dusted and rolled 
up dry, prints and colored goods laid away dry. 

If possible, it is best to have each kind put to soak 
by themselves in weak suds, but if this is not possible, 
all except table linen, handkerchiefs, kitchen cloths, 
etc., may be put to soak together. These latter must 
be kept by themselves till clean. Handkerchiefs, if 
badly soiled, may be put to soak in salt and water first. 

It is a good plan also to put collars, cufifs, shirts, etc., 
to soak by themselves, so that the old starch will not 
soak into the other articles which do not require 
starch. 

Now prepare melted soap by shaving or slicing 
pieces of soap, using all which have been saved for this 



10 Laundry Hints. 



purpose when too small for other use. Place in an 
earthen jar with just enough water to cover it and 
set on stove till the soap melts. This must be made 
fresh every week as it loses its strength if kept long. 
Use about one-quarter pound soap to each gallon of 
water. The clothes should be soaked over night in 
weak suds, which greatly aids the cleaning process 
next day. 

On washing day rise early, as much better work 
can be done before the heat of the day comes on. 
To Wash Flannels Without Shrinking. 

First, wash the flannels; because they take so long 
to dry, and as only warm water — not hot — is needed, 
this can be taken from the boiler while it is heating 
water for the rest of the washing, and by the time 
the flannels are finished, the water will be hot. In 
washing flannels, five things must be observed: 

1. Wash but one piece at a time. 

2. Do not soak, boil or rub. 

3. Do not wash in dirty water. 

4. Wash in waters of the same temperature. 

5. Use a neutral soap, i. e., one containing but little 
free alkali. 

After putting some of the melted soap into the water, 
and working up a good lather, take the lightest colored 
flannel piece, which has previously been well shaken, 
and plunge into the lather. Do not at any time rub 
the article, as this makes the fibres harsh ; but in- 
stead, punch and knead it till cleansed. If one soap 
lather is not enough use a second. When clean wring 
tightly, shake again and rinse in two waters of the 



Washing. 11 



same temperature as before, after which blue with 
MRS. STEWART'S BLUING, squeeze as dry as pos- 
sible, and, if the weather is fine, hang out doors at 
once. If it is necessary to dry in the house, hang 
near the fire, but not too near, so it will dry without 
shrinking. If any steam arises, while the articles are 
drying, there is too much heat, and you will act ac- 
cordingly. In wringing it is best to use a wringer so 
as not to twist the fibre. 

Colored flannels can be washed in the same way, 
but should be done with as little delay as possible. 
The last rinsing water should have some vinegar 
added, in the proportion of one tablespoonful to each 
quart, or if there are two or more colors, use salt 
instead of vinegar. This helps to set and revive the 
colors. They should be hung wrong side out, and 
when nearly dry turned. Knitted and woven w^oolen 
garments should be pulled into shape while drying, 
and it is a good plan to have frames made for woolen 
stockings, over which they can be stretched while 
drying. 

All flannels can be washed easier by adding a little 
ammonia to the water (one tablespoonful to two gal- 
lons), and this must be carefully rinsed out. Ammonia 
is quite necessary when hard water is used. By adding 
one tablespoonful of glycerine to the last water, the 
wool will be kept soft. Do not wash flannels on a 
rainy day if possible, or hang them where they will 
freeze. 

To Wash Blankets. 

The different waters must be all of the same luke- 



12 Laundry Hints. 



warm temperature. Prepare two tubs of warm suds 
with rain water and neutral soap. Do not rub soap 
on blankets, but punch and knead them. When water 
is soiled wring and treat in the same manner in the 
other tub. Rinse in luke-warm soft water and hang 
out to dry at once. Pin blanket on the line the long 
way of the blanket, so the colors will run down their 
own lines; putting only enough over the line to hold 
the blanket in place. When dry fold carefully. 
A Good Soap for Washing Woolens. 

Take one large bar Ivory Soap (or any other neutral 
soap) and shave it into three quarts of cold water. 
Heat till it boils, then cool, when two tablespoonfuls 
borax and one-half cup wood alcohol may be added. 
This mixture is sufficient for eight blankets. 
To Wash Prints and Colored Goods. 

In order that the colors on these may be kept bright, 
they should be set before the clothes are wet. This 
can best be done by soaking in salt and water (one 
tablespoonful to the gallon), or in vinegar and water 
(one-fourth cup vinegar to one gallon water). (Further 
instructions regarding the setting of colors are given 
in chapter seven.) Wash in lukewarm water and melted 
soap, avoiding rubbing, and washing more by squeez- 
ing and kneading. Rinse well, wring thoroughly and 
dry immediately with no sun. If the articles are to 
be starched stiflf. have the starch ready and dip at 
once as the colors may run if allowed to remain wet. 
If very stiff starching is required however, the ar- 
ticles must be thoroughly dried so they will absorb 
enough starch. Quick washing, quick drying and no 



Washing. ^3 



sun are the secrets of successful washing of prints. 
Colored clothes should not be boiled. 
To Wash Stockings. 
Stockings are washed first on the right side and then 
on the wrong side. Rinse in clear water. Do not boil. 
New stockings should be soaked in salt water to set 
the color. 

To Wash White Clothes. 
First of all remove any stains that are found, and 
either mend or draw together any rents that are ob- 
served. Prepare moderately strong suds of water as 
hot as the hands can bear. Wash cleanest pieces first, 
a few at a time ; first on the right side, then on the 
wrong side. Rub only enough to remove the dirt. 
Shake the article, soap the parts still dirty, boil and 
rinse. Blue with MRS. STEWART'S BLUING and 
hang in the bright sunshine and fresh air to dry. 
Table Linen. 
This does not generally require much rubbing as 
it is rarely very dirty, and besides hard rubbing injures 
the cloth. When clean, put in boiler in tepid water and 
let boil a few minutes, taking care not to let it stop 
boiling before the clothes are taken out. Place in a 
tub of clear, luke-warm water, wash and wring. It is 
well to loosen the rollers of the wringer as table linen 
creases easily. 

To Wash With Paraffine or Kerosene Oil. 
This method, while effective, requires a great deal 
of fuel, water and soap, but requires no rubbing what- 
ever. 



14 Laundry Hints. 



It is best to soak the clothes over night in luke- 
warm water, then make a strong suds of soap and add 
a tablespoonful of pure paraffine or kerosene oil to 
every three gallons of water used. Bring to a boil, 
and boil steadily for a half hour. If the boiling stops 
the dirt will settle on the clothes. Then remove, wring 
and w^ash in several waters, the first, at least, being 
hot water. If not yet clean, repeat the process with 
more kerosene or paraffine and clean water. The 
rinsing must be thoroughly done or the clothes will 
smell of kerosene. Be careful in using the kerosene, 
and do not pour it from the can directly into boiler, but 
into a cup first. 

How to Wash Without Fire. 

In summer, clothes may be washed without fire by 
soaking over night in a suds of soft water, rubbing out 
in the morning, soaping the dirty places and laying 
out on a clean lawn in the hot sunshine. By the time 
the last of the washing is laid out, the first can be 
taken up, washed out and rinsed. This, of course, 
requires a clean lawn, and cannot be done in the city. 

Turpentine is injurious to the health and should 
not be used to any great extent. It may be used in 
washing machines, however. Be careful not to breathe 
the fumes of it and see that clothes are particularly 
well rinsed afterwards. 

Note. — For cleaning special materials not mentioned 
above, and further instructions regarding washing, see 
chapter seven. 



Washing. 15 



Hints on Hanging Clothes. 

Always have a clean clothesline. It should be taken 
down after each washing and wiped off with a clean 
damp cloth before hanging clothes on it again. It is 
a good plan to have a nail in the cupboard on which 
the line can be hung when not in use. This keeps it 
from getting soiled. Clothespins can be kept in the 
same place. 

Hang everything on the line wrong side out. This 
is particularly necessary in cities where soot is so 
in evidence. Flannels should be hung with the thickest 
part attached to the line, so the moisture will run from 
it and the piece dry more quickly. 

Blankets should be pinned with just enough over 
the edge to hold them securely. They must be hung 
the long way of the blanket, so the colors will run 
down their own lines. Handkerchiefs, small linen 
pieces, etc., should be just caught, so they will not 
blow away. Attach securely so nothing will drag 
when clothes are dry if wind is strong enough to 
switch them. Table cloths, if hung so the wind can 
blow them out like a sail, will dry much quicker. 
Shirts should be hung by the neckband and shoulders, 
the sleeves being allowed to hang loose. 

Every housekeeper in a cold climate ought to 
provide a pair of mittens for hanging out clothes, to 
be used only for this purpose. Make them of two 
thicknesses of clean white flannel. Keep them in the 
clothespin basket where they will be handy. They 
must be washed often. 

To Prevent Clothespins From Splitting. 

Soak in cold water before using the first time. 



CHAPTER III. 

BLUING. 

This chapter is written with the object of helping 
those who have trouble with any kind of bluing, sug- 
gesting the only remedy, which is MRS. STEWART'S 
BLUING. 

Bluing is made of different materials, such as indigo, 
analine, ultra-marine or Chinese blue, etc. These are 
ordinarily insoluble in water, and are therefore, in their 
original state, most unsatisfactory to use. This is 
particularly true of the ultra-marine blue, which is the 
base of the ''ball" or "square" blue so often used. It 
is also used in some kinds of liquid blue. All of these 
are insoluble in water and do their work by depositing 
on the clothes a fine blue powder. Any lady using 
these blues will find a blue coating on the bottom of 
the tub when the water is poured off, thus showing 
the reason why they cause so much trouble and so 
often spot and streak the clothes. In case the ball or 
square blue is used, it is necessary to continually stir 
the blued water, so that this fine powder will not settle 
to the bottom of the tub or on the clothes, thus spotting 
or streaking them. 

AN ANALINE BLUE does not settle, but it can 
always be told by the fact that it colors the water pur- 
ple instead of blue, and if too much is used it will give 



Bluing. 17 



the clothes a purplish tint, which is not desirable. 

BLUING IN STICK FORxM is certain to be unsatis- 
factory. In the first place it is not economical, the 
statement of the manufacturers to the contrary not- 
withstanding. It will not go half as far as a bottle of 
MRS. STEWART'S BLUING, which can be easily 
proven by test. The base is generally the ultra-marine 
blue mentioned, and it never dissolves in the water, but 
deposits instead a fine blue powder on the clothes. 
Then, too, one's hands are sure to be soiled, or else 
when it is hung up, a blue streak will drain down the 
wall and onto the floor. Anyone who has ever used 
this style of bluing will tell you that it takes a long 
time to get the water blue enough, and as one is always 
very busy on wash-day, this fact alone is enough to 
decide one against it. 

THE DRY BLUE, in a pepperbox, is most unde- 
sirable because it will streak or spot the clothes if not 
used with great care. 

As to the SQUARE, OR BALL BLUE, we cannot 
understand why any woman wants to go to the trouble 
of wrapping the blue in flannel, taking the chances of 
getting her hands soiled, as well as streaking and spot- 
ting the clothes, and making the muss which is neces- 
sary, particularly on wash-day when one has plenty to 
do. This blue is not satisfactory and the only reason 
it has been used by housewives is because they have 
not known of any better. 



18 Laundry Hints. 



Liquid Bluing. 

We now come to the consideration of liquid bluing. 
This is far superior to any other style, but even here 
there are two kinds : MRS. STEWART'S and others. 
We will reserve our remarks on MRS. STEWART'S 
till the last and ponsider the other kinds first. 

Nearly all liquid bluing except MRS. STEWART'S 
is put up in second hand ale, beer or catsup bottles. 
These are gathered by junk dealers from the ash piles, 
saloons and dumps of the larger cities, and then sold 
just as they are, without being washed. The man who 
makes this junk bottle bluing does not wash the bottles 
either, but fills them up with bluing diluted just as 
much as possible. We have seen such bottles half 
full of beer, ashes, etc., but this makes no difference 
to the manufacturer of this vile stuff, for he has to 
make it up cheaply. The bluing in these bottles does 
not amount to much more than the value of the label 
on the bottle. To prove this take a spoonful or two of 
MRS. STEWART'S BLUING and put it in a catsup 
bottle, and then fill the bottle with water. You will 
find the mixture is as good, if not better, than any of 
the ale-bottle stuff. This explains why it is often 
necessary to use half a teacupful of ordinary bluing, 
when a few drops of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING 
will do the work better. 

This junk bottle bluing is sometimes called "cheap," 
but it does not have even that to recommend it, for 
it really is far more expensive than T^IRS. STEW- 
ART'S, which will go as far as eight to ten bottles of 
this vile stuff. Why any woman who wishes to make 



Bluing, 19 

clothes sweet and clean, can use this dirty bluing is 
more than we can understand. 

Why Mrs. Stewart's Bluing Is Superior. 

We now come to the consideration of MRS. STEW- 
ART'S BLUING, the ideal and only perfect bluing. 
This differs from all others in that it does its work 
perfectly, with no trouble or muss whatever. It does 
not spot nor streak the clothes nor turn them yellow, 
but instead, whitens them, and this without injuring 
in any way. You need never be afraid to use it on 
the finest material, for it cannot injure it. If too much 
is used, it can be washed out again and no harm is 
done. This, in fact, is the only trouble a woman has 
when first using MRS. STEWART'S BLUING, for 
on account of its being in more concentrated form than 
any other, it is not necessary to use nearly as much. 
By pouring it in the water, a few drops at a time, 
till the proper shade is obtained, no mistakes can be 
made. 

MRS. STEWART'S BLUING is, therefore, much 
more economical to use than any other and it is owing 
to this fact that nearly every Chinese laundry uses 
MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. They buy it not only 
because it is the best, but more generally because it 
is the cheapest for them to use. This is one of the best 
advertisements of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING that 
we know of. 

One of the most important good points about MRS. 
STEWART'S BLUING is the fact that it dissolves 
entirely even in the hardest water. It does not settle, 
either in the bottles or in the tub, and so will not spot 



20 Laundry Hints. 



nor streak the clothes. It is not necessary to shake the 
bottle, but one simply pours out as much as needed. 
Owing to the shape of the bottle it cannot tip over. 
Then, too, MRS. STEWART'S contains two ounces 
more than any other (so-called) high grade bluing, 
and all things considered, we can see no reason why 
any lady should care to use any other. Remember, 
other liquid bluings put up in second-hand ale or 
beer bottles are filthy" in the extreme and ought not 
to be used by any lady who wishes to do good work 
and have really clean clothes when she gets through. 

Miss Juniata L. Shepperd, one of the foremost au- 
thorities on laundry work in this country, whose words 
therefore carry great weight on this subject, says, in 
her book ''Laundry Work:" 

"Ultra-marine blue is a fine powder, insoluble in 
water, and unless the bluing water is frequently and 
thoroughly stirred and attention given to sides and 
bottom of the tub, this powder will adhere, and mar 
the clothes. Aniline blue will not be satisfactory if a 
bleach has been used which leaves a trace of acid in 
the rinsing water. Accustom yourself to some brand 
of bluing that you find good, and then use that, for 
you will soon be able to judge by the appearance of 
the water when the right amount has been used, and 
you will know how to guard against its imperfections. 

Precautions Necessary in the Use of Bluing. 

"Do not use too much. The clothes should never 
have a blue cast. If a liquid bluing is used, pour in a 
little, stir and try it by putting the hand down in the 



Bluing. 



21 



water. When you think it is right, try it with a 
white cloth before dipping any wearing apparel into it. 
Wring each article from the rinsing water before put- 
ting through the bluing water, then dip and wring 
them one at a time." 

Why Clothes Become Yellow. 

Clothes become yellow for a number of reasons, 
sometimes because not washed or rinsed sufficiently 
or because dried in the house or long unused. Then, 
too, it may be an excess of alkali used in softening 
the water, or water itself which contains impurities 
which stain the clothes. MRS. STEWART'S BLU- 
ING will overcome all these troubles, as thousands of 
the best laundresses of the Northwest testify. 




CHAPTER IV. 
STARCHING. 

All articles required very stiff, such as shirts, collars, 
cuffs, etc., should be starched in cold water starch, 
recipe of which is given ; or if a very high polish is 
desired use Mrs. Stewart's Starch Polish Recipe. They 
must be very dry so they will absorb the starch readily 
and the starch must be well rubbed into the article; 
after which they should be folded in a towel and ironed 
before becoming dry. They iron more easily by being 
left folded in the towel some time. 

Muslins, laces, prints, etc., requiring but little stiffen- 
ing are best done in hot water starch. They must be 
dried before ironing so as not to stick to the iron. Be- 
fore ironing they should be sprinkled with hot water 
and rolled up tightly until evenly damp. The more 
closely woven the goods are the less starch they re- 
quire. 

Table linen may or may not be starched. If starched 
it remains clean longer, but it is likely to be worn out 
sooner. It is best to use hot starch diluted, as linen 
is closely woven and absorbs a great deal. 

In washing underlinen, in which case but little starch 
can be used, you can add a teacupful of stiff boiled 
starch to each gallon of bluing water. This gives the 
garments a nice smoothness and gloss, but does not 
stiffen them perceptibly. Of course MRS. STEW- 



Starching. 



ART'S BLUING must be used, otherwise trouble may 
ensue. 

Recipe for Cold Water Starch. 

Two teaspoonfuls starch. 

One cup cold water. 

Four drops turpentine. 

Mix starch with a little of the water, using the 
fingers to remove lumps, etc., then add the turpentine. 
The turpentine makes the iron run smoothly. In mak- 
ing a larger quantity, be careful not to use too much 
turpentine, as it may make the clothes smell strongly. 
If turpentine is objected to, make a lather with soap 
in the starch, but this is likely to scorch when ironing. 
A small quantity of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING 
added will make the starch ver}' white. 

Recipe for Boiled Starch for Stiff Starching. 
Take four tablespoonfuls starch (if possible, three 
of corn starch and one of wheat starch) and mix with 
a little cold water till about the consistency of cream. 
Now add a pint of boiling water, two teaspoonfuls 
of kerosene, one teaspoonful lard and a little MRS. 
STEWART'S BLUING to give the starch a nice 
white color. Boil about ten minutes, stirring frequent- 
ly. When ready to use, place the dish of starch in 
another dish of hot water to keep the starch warm 
while being used. 

Mrs. Stewart's Famous Starch Polish Recipe. 

Into two heaping tablespoonfuls of starch dissolved 
to the consistency of thin cream, in cold water; slice 
one and one-half inches of a paraffine candle. Prepare 



24 Laundry Hints. 



in a granite dish, place on a hot stove, stir briskly, and 
pour in boiling water until it is the consistency of thin 
syrup. Boil gently, stirring occasionally, for a half 
hour. 

Now take the same amount of starch for a second 
as was used for the first batch, and dissolve in one- 
fourth pint of cold water. Remove the dish of hot 
starch from stove, stirring until the scalding heat 
passes ofif; pour the cold into the hot starch, stirring 
until well mixed, then strain through cloth into a dish. 
Set in hot water to keep the starch warm while being 
used. Put collars and cufifs into the starch, rubbing 
thoroughly, but never wringing the starch from the 
article. After starching thoroughly, move the thumb 
and finger downward ; this removes the loose starch, 
sticks the plies firmly together, and removes cloudy 
spots. Starch neck-band the full length, same as bosom. 
Fold shirts in the usual way, sprinkling body and 
sleeves, rolling tight. Fold collars and cuffs in heavy 
towel, thumping them a little and roll up in a dry 
towel. Commence ironing in twenty or thirty minutes. 
Before this secure a smooth surface with several layers 
of fine cloth. Lay collar inside up with the upper edge 
away from you, remove with fine cloth the loose starch 
by rubbing until the collar is clear of wrinkle and 
dampness, then turn it over, operating on the outside 
in like manner. Now turn it inside up, and lay on a 
piece of fine muslin, running the fingers over it gently, 
thus pressing the plies together ; then pass the hot iron 
over the cloth lightly two or three times. Remove the 
cloth, turn the article outside up, and operate as before. 



Starching. 25 



Turn again and iron with quite hot iron until you have 
a smooth surface. Finally turn and finish by ironing 
and shaping. 

This system of starching will admit of very hot irons, 
which will not scorch nor brown the starch. The rule 
is to use just as hot irons as possible. Iron until per- 
fectly dry and you have collars that are as hard and 
solid as a board, and cuffs that are as springy as a 
saw blade. 

A little MRS. STEWART'S BLUING added to the 
starch will make it and the articles on which it is used 
whiter. 

Mode of Polishing. 

Place the bosom, cuff or collar on the board, with 
upper edge of collar from you, dampen the surface 
evenly and quickly wdth a cloth, wrung out of cold 
water; then wath a dr}^ cloth, wipe the article dry 
quickly. This operation serves to clear the article and 
gives the work a finer finish. Dampen again as before, 
immediately placing the polishing iron on the article 
with heel down at an angle of 45 degrees, moving the 
iron rapidly with both hands, to and fro and crosswise 
the article, until you have a beautiful porcelain finish. 
How to Roll and Shape Collars and Cuffs. 

Place the standing collar on the board with upper 
edge from you, face down, move the iron rapidly, and 
at the same time bring the collar with the other hand 
over and after the iron with a rolling movement. Lay- 
down collars are much more difficult to handle, as the 
work is so firm you cannot turn them without breaking 
the starch, and sometimes even the linen. To avoid 



26 Laundry Hints. 



this, dampen a narrow space on both sides where the 
collar is to be turned. Allow a short time for starch 
to soften, and with thumbs and fingers gradually turn 
and mould, pressing down with thumbs ; then take the 
point of polishing iron crosswise and iron down until 
it is firmly pressed. Turn and roll same as standing 
collar. Cuffs are treated in the same manner. The 
polishing iron should be of the usual pattern with a 
rounded heel. 

Recipe for Rice Starch. 

This can be used only for thin sheer materials like 
muslins, handkerchiefs, etc. 

Take one-fourth pound rice and cook in one quart 
water till cooked to a pulp, adding more water as 
necessary. Now pour on one quart more of hot water 
and strain through cloth. In using rice starch take 
one piece at a time, dip in the starch, and if small clap 
between the hands, which scatters the starch into every 
part of the cloth. If large hang out for a few minutes 
and iron when nearly dry. 

Gum Water for Stiffening. 

Take one ounce best gum-arabic and one-half pint 
boiling water; pour water over gum and let stand, 
stirring frequently, strain through cloth and bottle. 
This keeps a long time and can be used for stiffening 
as required. 

To prevent starch showing on black or dark colored 
goods add to the starch a little coffee or tea and if to 
be used on blue goods you can color the starch a deep 
blue by using plenty of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. 



CHAPTER V. 

IRONING. 

When sprinkling clothes use warm water as it 
spreads better and does not spot them. Keep prmts 
and colored goods away from white things, which they 
are likely to stain, and do not let them lie any longer 
than necessary in summer as starched clothes mildew 

quickly. , i, u u 

With shirts, dampen bosom, cuffs and collar by rub- 
bing both sides with damp cloth. Separate collars 
and cuffs can be dampened and rolled up m damp 
cloths. Stockings are not sprinkled. A sprmkler 
with rubber bulb attached can be bought at stores, such 
as is used for sprinkling plants, etc. This is a con- 
venience when one cares to go to this expense. 
Ironing. 
All articles to be ironed will have a better appear- 
ance if carefully folded when taken from the Ime 
Have everything ready when you begin ironing and 
try the iron on a white cloth before using. Mushns 
are ironed on the right side, prints, dotted muslins, 
and embroideries on the wrong side; table linens, doil- 
ies, etc., on both sides. They should not be too dry 
or the surface will be rough instead of smooth Have 
iron very hot for table linen and muslins, and not as 
warm for prints. Heavy irons can be used for ironmg 



28 Laundry Hints. 



Straight work such as table linen, etc., and light ones 
for ruffles, embroideries, etc. Iron rapidly in a good 
lig-ht so as to be sure not to scorch the goods. A 
slight scorch may be removed by immediately washing 
the spot over several thicknesses of white cloth. The 
white cloths absorb the scorch and should be moved 
frequently. Carefully iron around any buttons or 
hooks, making as few folds as is necessary. 

Articles with trimming should be so ironed as to 
have the trimming on top. After ironing hang articles 
on clotheshorse till perfectly dry. All articles must 
be stretched carefully into shape while being ironed. 

In ironing table linen, it will be necessary to iron 
one fold down, the center and perhaps one across the 
width of the cloth. The cloth should now be merely 
folded (not ironed) for the balance of the necessary 
folds. This will make it last longer. Some people, 
instead of folding table linen, have rolls of paper made 
three inches longer than the width of the cloth, and 
the cloth is rolled on this as soon as ironed. Table 
linen should be ironed first on the right side and then 
on the wrong side. 

Doilies should be ironed with the threads, and if 
ironed on the wrong side, over soft padding, the pat- 
tern will stand out better. 

In ironing shirts, the neckband, cuffs and the rest 
of shirt should be done quickly, leaving the bosom 
until the last. Have the covering on the bosom board 
elastic rather than hard. Be sure your irons are 
smooth and well waxed and hot enough for the work 
required, but not too hot. If yellow streaks appear, 



Ironing. 29 



the iron is dirty, too cold, or not waxed. If the work 
gives a streak of polish and one of dull, run a piece 
of damp cheesecloth over the surface, then heat, clean 
and wax the iron again. 

Domestic finish on shirts is obtained by rubbing a 
damp cloth over the highly polished surface, or by 
passing it an instant over the steam from the tea 
kettle. 

Dresses should be ironed, the sleeves and neckband 
first, then the rest of the body, and last of all the 
skirt. If the dress has both an upper and a lower skirt, 
iron the lower one first. 

Always have near the ironing board a dish of clear 
cold water, so any spot imperfectly ironed can be 
easily wet with a soft sponge or fine cloth, thus re- 
moving any surplus starch and, if necessary, it can be 
ironed over again. 

Use cotton holders for irons. Woolen ones are hot 
to the hand and if scorched, as they so often are, the 
smell is very disagreeable. 

Ordinary irons, when heated over gas, must be care- 
fully wiped before they become more than warm. The 
hydrogen of the gas unites with the oxygen of the air 
and condenses in the form of water on the surface of 
the cold metal, and if it is not wiped off turns to rust. 

The Ironing Table. 

This should be firm and steady, covered smoothly 
with at least two thicknesses of blanket or similar 
material. On top should be a heavy cotton cloth which 
can be removed when dirty. Have no seams or patches 
under the ironing surface. 



30 Laundry Hints. 



The bosom board should be one and one-half feet 
long and one foot wide, covered the same as the larger 
board. 

Irons. 

The best irons for all around use are the Sad irons 
with iron handles and steel bottoms, though many- 
prefer the newer patent styles, with polished bottoms 
and detachable wood handles. These are indeed easier 
on the hands and are preferable for some work, but 
they do not hold the heat as well as the old fashioned 
kind. There are many irons which burn charcoal or 
have a heated iron inside, gas irons, electric irons, etc., 
but these, not being in general use, will not be con- 
sidered here. 

When heating irons be careful not to get any dirt, 
blacking, etc., on them. When ironing rub the iron 
in salt each time before replacing on fire. 

On removing from the fire rub the iron on a damp 
cloth, then quickly on a wax cloth and then on a clean 
cloth. This will ensure perfect success. When 
through ironing stand irons on end till cool and put 
away in a clean dry place. If irons are not to be used 
again for some time, grease the polished surface with 
mutton tallow, which prevents rusting. 

If irons have become rusted, scour the rusty surface 
with scouring soap, rubbing it on with a piece of flan- 
nel. If the rust is deep, wipe and rub with a piece of 
very fine sandpaper and finish by rubbing with emery 
cloth. Lastly, rub the entire iron with hot soapsuds, 
wipe dry and set on stove till hot, then put in dry 
place, away from steam or dampness or any kind. 



CHAPTER VI. 

S/ REMOVING STAINS. 

In removing stains, it should be borne in mind that 
a great deal of patience is often required, especially if 
the stains on the articles have been allowed to remain 
some time. One should also use great caution with 
them, and no cleaning should be done at night or near 
a fire or light of any kind as cleaning fluids are usually 
very volatile and there is great danger of explosion. 
As some cleaning fluids are often very poisonous, they 
must be kept away from children and be carefully 
labeled. Use a pad of clean blotting paper under the 
material and rub in a circle to prevent any ring form- 
ing. If a ring is left after using gasoline or benzine, 
spread French chalk on it and place in the sun. 

A GOOD CLEANING FLUID for nearly all ma- 
terials is made of equal parts of ether, ammonia and 
alcohol. Keep well corked and do not use near a light 
or fire of any kind. 

AMMONIA is one of the best of cleaning agents, 
particularly if used with warm soapsuds. One need 
not be afraid to use too much. It is particularly good 
for spots when fresh. 

SOAP BARK will freshen woolen clothes wonder- 
fully. Get five cents' worth of soap bark and steep in a 
quart of water for two hours, then strain through cloth. 



32 Laundry Hints. 



First brush the article and then sponge with the soap 
bark solution. Afterwards rinse in ammonia and 
water. 
Javelle Water. 

Take one-quarter pound chloride of lime, one ounce 
sal soda and one quart of boiling water, and mix to- 
gether. Let dissolve and settle and pour off liquor 
into bottles. Label "poison" and use with great care, 
rinsing the articles in clear water as soon as possible. 
This is injurious to any fabric if left on it long. 

STAINS AND HOW TO REMOVE THEM. 
Acid Spots. 

Spots produced by an acid may be removed by touch- 
ing with ammonia ; spots produced by an alkali, by 
moistening with vinegar or tartaric acid. 
Axle Grease, Machine Oil, Etc. 

Rub with lard and allow to stand one-half hour be- 
fore washing, or rub stain with turpentine. 
Blood Stains. 

Soak in cold water until stain turns brown, then soak 
in warm soapsuds, or they may be removed by the 
application of a thick coating of starch. Use the 
starch wet, the same as when prepared for laundry 
work. 

Coffee, Tea, Chocolate or Fruit Stains. 

Stretch stained portion over bowl and pour boiling 
water on it from a height so as to strike the cloth with 
force. If stain does not immediately disappear, rub 
between the hands and pour boiling water on it again. 

With tea or chocolate it will aid the action of the 
water to sprinkle borax over the stain and soak first 



Removing Stains. 



in cold water, or tea stains may be soaked first in 
glycerine, and then use boiling water as directed. 

Fruit Stains. 

May be removed same as coffee stains, but if old and 
set in the cloth, nothing short of some bleaching ma- 
terial will remove them. Either oxalic acid or javelle 
water is used. Take a teaspoonful oxalic acid to a 
bowl of warm water and in another bowl of water one 
teaspoonful concentrated ammonia. After using boil- 
ing water as directed for coffee stains, dip in acid 
water and rub till stain disappears. Then rinse in 
ammonia water and rinse thoroughly in clear water. 
Use these with great care and rinse well as they are 
very powerful acids. 
Peach Stains. 

Rub alcohol into stain and allow to evaporate. Re- 
peat operation several times before using hot water, 
as directed for coffee stains. 

Fruit stains can often be removed from the hands 
by rubbing them with raw tomatoes and salt, or lemon 
juice and salt. 
Glue. 

Rub well with vinegar on a cloth. 
Grass Stains. 

If not on delicate colors, ammonia and water if ap- 
plied at once, will remove them, or wash in alcohol or 
chloroform, or saturate with molasses. Rub it in well 
and then wash as usual. 

Ink. 

As soon as spilled throw salt on it or soak with 
blotting paper to absorb as much as possible. If on 



34 Laundry Hints. 



white goods wash in lemon juice and salt, or vinegar 
and salt. If on colored goods, wash in milk, or use 
javelle water, or oxalic acid and ammonia water, but 
this last may remove the color. Copying ink is almost 
impossible to remove. 
Purple Ink. 

Absorb with blotting paper or salt, then rub with 
equal parts alcohol and glycerine. 

Ink on fingers can be instantly removed by a little 
ammonia. After using rinse the hands in clear water. 

To remove ink from rosewood or mahogany, put six 
drops spirits of nitre in a spoonful of water. Touch 
the stain with a feather wet in this. As soon as ink 
disappears, wash off with clean cloth and cold water. 
If spot does not immediately disappear make mixture 
stronger but do not forget to w^ash it ofif immediately 
each time. 
Iodine. 

Soak in choloroform or ether till iodine is dissolved 
and disappears. 

Iron Rust. 

Soak in lemon juice and salt and lay in sun. If not 
removed repeat the process, or make paste of lemon 
juice, starch and salt, and let lie in sun. Or take one 
teaspoonful hydrochloric acid to two teaspoonfuls 
warm water. As soon as stain is gone rinse thorough- 
ly. Either of the latter, however, will take out the 
color of the goods. 

Kerosene. 

Cover stain with a layer of hot Fuller's earth for two 
hours and then brush ofif. 



Removing Stains. 35 



Lamp Black. 

Wet with kerosene and wash with soap and water. 
Medicine Stains. 

Soak in alcohol. 
Mildew. 

Remove when fresh if possible, as this is extremely 
difficult to remove. Soak in strong lemon juice and 
salt; or vinegar and salt, and let lie in the sunshine; or 
use javelle water, though this is likely to leave a hole 
after removing the mildew, especially if not rinsed 
thoroughly. 
Milk or Cream. 

Wash in cold water and then soap thoroughly. 
Mucus Stains. 

Soak in ammonia water and wash in cold water and 
soap; afterwards boil. 
Paint, Fresh. 

Wash at once with soap and soft water, but if goods 
cannot be washed, soak in kerosene and then wash 
with benzine or naphtha. 
Paint. 

Rub with benzine or turpentine, or if light delicate 
colors, use chloroform or naphtha. All these should be 
used with extreme care, away from fire or artificial light 
of any kind. To prevent a ring showing afterwards 
take a clean cloth, wet with the liquid used, and rub 
from the outside towards the center. 

It is said that wet paint on clothing may be rubbed 
by another piece of the same material and the stain 
will immediately disappear. 



Laundry Hints. 



Perspiration. 

Soak in strong soap suds and let lie in sunshine for 
several days, or use javelle water, on Avhite goods only. 
Scorch. 

Hang in sunlight. (Also see Chapter on Ironing.) 

Take a peeled onion and pound to extract juice. Add 
to this two ounces of soda, one-half pint of vinegar and 
two ounces of Fuller's earth. Boil 10 minutes, strain 
through cloth and bottle. Spread some on scorched 
part and let dry, repeating process if necessary, till 
scorch disappears. A slight scorch may often be re- 
moved by hanging in bright sunlight. 
Tar. 

Remove same as paint. 
Varnish. 

Wet stain with turpentine and let it dissolve a mo- 
ment, sponge off with clean cloth. If delicate colors, 
use chloroform. 
Vaseline Stains. 

Soap and water is often all that is necessary, but 
stain cannot be removed after boiling. If obstinate, 
wash with turpentine. 
Wax or Tallow. 

Scrape off as much as possible, then place blotting 
paper over spot and quickly iron with hot iron. This 
melts wax and causes it to be absorbed by blotting 
paper. Remove paper quickly after ironing. If any 
color is left, owing to color in wax, use alcohol to re- 
move same. 
Wine Stains. 

Cover with damp salt and place out doors in sun and 
dew, or after leaving salt on stain for a time, use boil- 
ing water (or boiling milk) same as for coffee stains. 



CHAPTER VII. 

CLEANING SPECIAL MATERIALS. 

To Set Colors. 

Lavender and other delicate colors. Dissolve one 
ounce sugar of lead in one gallon of water, soak several 
hours before washing. 
To Brighten Blues. 

Make a very strong bluing water of MRS. STEW- 
ART'S BLUING. Rinse and dry quickly. 
To Set Blacks, Reds, Pinks, Etc. 

Soak in a strong solution of salt and water. A little 
ox gall in the water will help keep weak colors bright. 

To Clean Alpaca. 

Sponge with strained coffee and iron on the wrong 
side, having black cambric under the goods. 
To Wash Alpaca. 

Put goods in boiler half full of cold rain water, and 
let boil three minutes. Have ready a pail of dark 
bluing water (made of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING), 
place goods in this after wringing out of boiling water. 
Let remain in bluing one-half hour; wring and iron 
while damp. 
Babies' Clothes. 

Babies' clothes, when washed, should be done by 
themselves, and if necessarv use borax, but not soda or 



38 Laundry Hints. 



washing powder, as these irritate the skin. Do not 
starch stiffly, and be sure to rinse well. 
To Wash Chamois. 

Wash in tepid water same as woolens and rub well. 
Pull into shape as it dries, and rub between the hands 
occasionally to keep soft. 

How to Clean Corsets. 

Take out the steels at front and sides, then scrub 
1^- thoroughly with tepid or cold lather of white castile 
soap, using a very small scrubbing brush. Do not lay 
them in water. When quite clean let cold water run on 
them freely from the spigot to rinse out the soap thor- 
oughly. Dry in a cool place without ironing, after pull- 
ing lengthwise till they are straight and shapely. 
To Make Old Crepe Look Like New. 
A^ Pass the crepe to and fro several times through the 

steam from teakettle. 
Dish Cloths. 
y No articles in kitchen use are so likely to be neg- 

lected and abused as the dish-cloths and dish towels; 
and in washing these, ammonia, if properly used, is a 
greater comfort than anywhere else. Put a teaspoonful 
into the water in which these cloths are or should be 
washed every day, rub soap on the towels. Put them 
in the water ; let them stand a half hour or so, then rub 
them out thoroughly, rinse faithfully, and dry out doors 
in clear air and sun, and dish cloths and towels will 
never look gray and dingy, — a perpetual discomfort to 
all housekeepers. 
To Wash Doilies. 
\^' Make a suds of soft water and Ivory soap, or use 



Cleaning Special Materials. 



borax instead of soap (one tablespoonful dissolved in 
a little hot water to each gallon of water). Wash 
doilies carefully, kneading and punching, rinse well and 
roll in a towel to prevent colors staining other parts of 
the doily. 
In Washing Laces. 

Use castile soap and soft water. Make a strong suds 
and let stand, squeeze and punch but do not rub or pull, 
rinse well and stiffen with rice starch or sugar. White 
lace is improved with a little MRS. STEWART'S 
BLUING. After this, place on a clean window pane, 
pulling out each point as it should be. When necessary 
to iron lace use moderately warm iron and iron on the 
wrong side on soft ironing board. 
Black Lace. 

To stiffen dip in milk and iron between black cloths. 
To clean, steep in strong tea and rinse ; adding to the 
last water one teaspoonful gum arabic or some sugar. 
Iron through papers or black cloth. 
Cleaning Lace. 

Cream colored Spanish lace can be cleaned and made 
to look like new by rubbing it in dry flour; rub as if 
you were washing in water. Then take it out doors 
and shake all the flour out; if not perfectly clean, re- 
peat the rubbing in a little more clean flour. The flour 
must be very thoroughly shaken from the lace, or the 
result will be far from satisfactory. White knitted 
hoods can be cleaned in this way ; babies' socks also, if 
only slightly soiled. 
Lace Curtains. 

Shake curtains to remove as much dust as possible 



40 Laundry Hints. 



/ 



and make a note of the size before wetting them. Put 
to soak in suds of castile soap and tepid water. Knead 
and squeeze and when water is soiled put in another 
tub of suds. Put in boiler and boil a few minutes, then 
rinse twice and blue with MRS. STEWART'S BLU- 
ING if white, or if colored use coffee, tea or saffron in- 
stead of bluing. Wring in wringer as dry as possible 
and dip in starch. Now place a clean sheet on the floor 
and pin the curtains carefully on same, making sure 
that the size is the same as before. Several curtains 
may be pinned at the same time, one above the other. 
By far the best way, however, is to get a pair of curtain 
stretchers to dry the curtains on. These can be bought 
at most stores, or one can easily make them. 
Black Percale or Print Dresses. 

That have figures of white in them, may be washed 
by putting in boiling suds after other clothes have 
been removed. Boil ten minutes, cool the suds, rub 
quickly and rinse in luke-warm water. Now rinse 
thoroughly in very blue water made of MRS. STEW- 
ART'S BLUING, and then starch with coffee starch. 
To Clean Ribbons. 

Dissolve white soap in boiling water; when cool 
enough to bear the hand pass the ribbons through it, 
rubbing gently so as not to injure the texture, rinse 
through lukewarm water and pin on a board to dry. If 
colors are reds or yellows add a few drops of oil of 
vitriol to the rinsing water. If color is bright scarlet, 
add to the rinsing water a few drops of muriate of tin. 
To Wash a Silk Dress. 

Rip it apart and shake free from dust. Prepare two 



Cleaning Special Materials. 41 

tubs of warm soft water; make a suds of gall soap in 
one tub and use the other to rinse in. Wash one piece 
at a time ; wring gently, rinse, wring again, shake and 
iron with hot iron on what will be the wrong side. It 
is better to change to new water to rinse in when about 
half done, making suds in the old rinsing water. 

In washing silks, if colored, first soak in salt water 
to set the colors, then wash with a mild soap and tepid 
water. If white silk it will become yellow unless a 
little MRS. STEWART'S BLUING is used in the 
water. The silk should be wrung in a wringer and 
ironed as soon as dry enough. Do not let it lie wet, 
as this will make colors run. Iron on wrong side with 
moderately hot iron. 
To Remove Shine From Silk Dresses, Etc. 

A little ammonia in a few spoonfuls of alcohol is 

excellent to sponge silk dresses that have grown shiny 

\^ or rusty, as well as to take out spots. A black silk in 

particular becomes almost like new when so sponged. 

Spots on Towels and Hosiery. 

Spots on towels and hosiery will disappear with little 
trouble if a little ammonia is put into enough water to 
soak the articles, and they are left in it an hour or two 
before washing; and if a cupful is put into the water 
in which white clothes are soaked the night before 
washing, the ease with which the articles can be 
washed, and their great whiteness and clearness when 
dried will be very gratifying. 
To Restore Velvet. 

When velvet gets crushed from pressure hold the 
^ part over a basin of hot water. The ''pile" of the velvet 
will soon rise and be like new. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

MISCELLANEOUS HOUSEHOLD RECIPES. 

To Clean Brooms. 

About once in ten days thoroughly wash the carpet 
broom with hot soap suds, shake till nearly dry and 
/^ hang where it will dry quickly. By doing this better 

work can be done with the broom and it will last 
longer. 
To Clean Carpets With Seafoam. 

Dissolve one cup borax in one quart hot water, and 
add two ounces of glycerine. When tepid add one 
pound castile soap, previously dissolved in four quarts 
of hot water, also eight ounces of ammonia and two 
V ounces of ether. Use a stiff brush dipped in this so- 
lution, rubbing from the outside towards the center to 
prevent a ring. 
To Whiten Celluloid Collars and Cuffs. 

Use cream of tartar with a little water. 
To Clean Coffee and Tea Pots. 

These, when they become musty, may be cleaned and 
sweetened by having a quantity of wood ashes placed 
in them and then filled with cold water. Place on stove 
to heat gradually and boil a short time, after which let 
cool and then the inside must be carefully scrubbed 
with a brush. Scald several times. If wood ashes can- 
not be obtained use baking soda. 



y 



Miscellaneous Household Recipes. 43 

To Clean Feathers. 

Cover the feathers with a paste made of pipe-clay and 
water, rubbing them one way only. When quite dry, 
shake off all the powder and curl with a knife. Grebe 
feathers may be washed with white soap in soft water. 
When Scrubbing Floors. 

Use plenty of clean, cold water and soap, and scrub 
with the grain of the wood, not round and round. Do 
not use soda. 
To Keep Flies Off Gilt Frames. 

Boil three or four onions in a pint of water and apply 
with a soft brush. 
To Brighten Gilt Frames. 

Take sufficient flour of sulphur to give a golden tinge 
to about one and one-half pints of water, and in this boil 
four or five bruised onions, or garlic, which will answer 
the same purpose. Strain off the liquid, and with it, 
when cold, wash, with soft brush, any gilding which re- 
quires restoring, and when dry it will come out as 
bright as new work. 
Furniture Polish. 

Equal quantities of linseed oil, turpentine, vinegar, 
and spirits of wine make an excellent polish. When 
used, shake the mixture well, and rub on the furniture 
with a piece of linen rag, then polish with a clean dus- 
ter. Vinegar and oil, rubbed in with flannel, and the 
furniture rubbed with a clean duster, produces a very 
good polish. 
To Clean Furs. 

Furs may be cleaned with warm bran rubbed thor- 
oughly into the fur which is then shaken and brushed. 



44 Laundry Hints, 



For Washing Glass and Glassware. 

For washing windows, looking-glasses, etc., a little 
ammonia in the water saves much labor, aside from giv- 
ing a better polish than anything else ; and for general 
housecleaning it removes dirt, smoke and grease most 
^ effectually. Put half a teaspoonful into clear water to 
wash tumblers or glass of any kind, rinse and dry well, 
and they will be beautifully clear. 
To Clean Ivory Articles. 

Make a paste of water, sawdust and a few drops of 

V lemon juice. Apply thickly and let dry, after which 
brush ofif, when the ivory w^ill be as clean as when new. 
To Clean Hair Brushes. 

Do not use soap, but instead a tablespoonful of am- 
\^. monia in bowl of water. Dip up and down till brushes 
are clean, rinse thoroughly and dry with brushes down. 
To Cleanse the Inside of Jars. 

This can be done in a few minutes by filling the jars 
with hot water (it need not be scalding hot), and then 
stirring in a teaspoonful or more of baking soda. 
^ Shake well, then empty the jar at once, and if any of 
the former odor remains about it, fill again with water 
and soda; shake well, and rinse out in cold water. 
To Clean Kid Gloves. 

Rub with very slightly damp bread-crumbs. If not 
effectual, scrape upon them dry Fuller's earth, or 
French chalk, when on the hands, and rub them quickly 

V together in all directions. Do this several times. Or 
put gloves of a light color on the hands and wash the 
hands in a basin of ammonia. Some gloves may be 
washed in a strong lather made of soft soap and warm 



IL.oFC. 



V 



Miscellaneous Household Recipes. 45 

water or milk ; or wash with rice pulp ; or sponge them 
well with turpentine, and hang them in a warm place or 
where there is a current of air, when all smell of turpen- 
tine will be removed. 
To Clean Mica. 

Mica in stoves, when smoked, is readily cleaned by 
taking it out and thoroughly washing with vinegar a 
little diluted. If black does come off at once, let it soak 
a little. 
To Prevent Mildew. 

In closets or damp places put a jar of quicklime in 
the closet and it will absorl) all the dampness. 
To Remove Odor of Perspiration. 

Procure some compound spirits of ammonia, and 
place two tablespoonfuls in a basin of water. Washing 
the face, hands, and arms with this leaves the skin as 
clean, sweet and fresh as one could wish. The wash is 
perfectly harmless and very cheap. It is recommended 
on the authority of an experienced physician. 
To Remove Putty. 

A red-hot iron will soften putty so that it can be eas- 
ily removed. 
Rust on Stoves. 

A thin coating of three parts lard melted with one 
. , part rosin applied to stoves and grates, will prevent 
rusting in summer. 
For Washing Silver and Silverware. 

For washing silver, put half a teaspoonful ammonia 

, into the suds ; have the water hot ; wash quickly, using 

V^ a small brush, rinse in hot water, and dry with clean 

linen towel, then rub very dry with a chamois skin. 



i^ 



46 Laundry Hints. 



Washed in this manner, silver becomes very brilliant, 
requires no polishing with any of the powders or whit- 
ing usually employed, and does not wear out. Silver- 
plate, jewelry and door-plates can be beautifully 
cleaned and made to look like new by moistening a soft 
cloth or chamois skin in a weak preparation of am- 
monia water, and' rubbing the articles with it. Salt will 
remove ^%% stains on silver. 
For Cleaning Jewelry. 

For cleaning jewelry there is nothing better than am- 
monia and water. If very dull or dirty rub a little soap 
on a soft brush and brush them in this wash, rinse in 
cold water, dry first in an old handkerchief, and then 
rub with chamois skin. Their freshness and brilliancy 
when thus cleaned cannot be surpassed by any com- 
pound used by jewelers. 

/ To Cleanse a Sponge. 

Rub a fresh lemon well into a soured sponge and 
rinse thoroughly in luke-warm water. This will make 

\^it as sweet as when new. 
To Clean Straw Hats. 

Wash in warm soap suds and rinse, then place a little 
oxalic acid in a pan and pour on enough hot water to 
cover the hat. After five minutes the hat may be re- 
moved and dried in the sun, and stiffened with a mix- 
ture of gutta percha and ether. 
/ To Clean Wash Boilers. 

/ W^hen a little rusty wash with milk, or grease with 

' lard. It is a better plan to prevent rust, however, by 
thoroughly drying the boiler before putting it away for 
the week. 



Miscellaneous Household Recipes. 47 

Cleaning White Paint. 

Spirits of ammonia, used in sufficient quantity to 
soften the water, and ordinary hard soap, will make the 
paint look white and clean with half the effort of any 
other method ever tried. Care should be taken not to 
have too much ammonia, or the paint will be injured. 

To Polish Windows. 

A soft cloth wet in alcohol is excellent to wipe off 
French plate-glass and mirrors and to keep frost off 
windows. 
To Remove Paint From Window Glass. 

Rub with baking soda or turpentine. 

Kalsomine. 

For plain white use one pound white glue, twenty 
pounds English whiting; and a little MRS. STEW- 
ART'S BLUING; dissolve glue by boiling in about 
three pints of water ; dissolve whiting and bluing with 
hot water, make the consistency of thick batter; then 
add glue and one cup soft soap. Dissolve a piece of 
alum the size of a hen's tgg, add and mix the whole 
thoroughly. Let it cool before using. If too thick to 
spread nicely add more water till it spreads easily. For 
blue tints add a little more MRS. STEWART'S BLU- 
ING, and for lavender a little Venetian red. For 
peach-blow use red in white alone. The above quan- 
tity is enough to cover four ceilings, sixteen feet 
square with two coats, and will not rub off. 
Recipe for Cleaning Wall Paper or Kalsomine. 

Making old wall paper look as good as new. Take 
10 pounds rye flour, 2 pounds salt, 1 pound sal soda, 



48 Laundry Hints. 



and a small quantity of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING 
to whiten it. The above to be mixed in one gallon of 
hot soft water. Stir until very thick, then cook and stir 
for one-half hour. When cool take a piece and rub 
over the wall or ceiling, the same as with a cloth. This 
recipe makes enough to clean 20 rooms, average size 
18x20. 
To Make Whitewash. 

Put some freshly burned quicklime in a pail with suf- 
ficient water to cover it. Then add one pint boiled lin- 
seed oil to each gallon of the mixture, and a little MRS. 
STEWART'S BLUING to make it a pure white. Thin 
witfi water till the proper consistency, and apply with a 
bruch. Do not let the brush remain in the pail as it 
destroys the bristles in time. This whitewash will not 
rub oiif easily and is a great purifier as well. 
Other Uses for Bluing. 

It is a fact not generally known that MRS. STEW- 
ART'S BLUING can be used with great success in 
washing white horses. Put a little in a pail of water 
and then, after washing as usual with soap, rinse with 
clear water and then sponge with the bluing water. It 
can, of course, be used for washing white dogs, cats, 
and other pets. 

Bluing is also used by paper manufacturers to make 
very white paper, and in many other ways, but its 
principal use is in the laundry for whitening clothes, 
and it is here that MRS. STEWART'S BLUING ex- 
cels all others. 

AHvays use MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. 



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